Bob and I recently returned from a two-week trip to Mexico (read all about it in our Winter Newsletter here). We spent time in Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, and three delightful days in one of our new favorite cities, Mexico City. It was our second visit to Mexico’s capital, and we ate delicious food, visited interesting markets and museums, and stayed at our most favorite bed and breakfast ever, The Red Tree House.
Mexico City has it all. Great food, compelling culture, and a cosmopolitan big-city vibe. With a population of more than eight million, there is always something to do and see. One highlight of our visit was a morning at the Jamaica Market, recommended by Rachael, a super Red Tree House employee. We were looking for a true locals market, not necessarily to shop, but to people watch and browse the stalls that are filled with local delicacies and products, and the Jamaica Market covered all the bases. It is well known for its flower market, and with Dia de Los Muertos just a few days away, it was overflowing with red and yellow marigolds for purchase. But the Jamaica Market offers much more than flowers. It has terrific stalls offering meat, produce, souvenirs and more. We ate an early lunch at Rossy, a food stall that serves up delicious huaraches (masa dough and smashed pinto beans), nopales (cactus) and more, right in the heart of the market.
Another outstanding experience was a visit to the Museo de El Carmen, a former Carmelite Monastery. With beautiful courtyards, religious artifacts and great architecture, this museum is not to be missed. There’s a crypt below the museum too, with 12 mummies on display in beautiful, velvet lined coffins. Although it’s slightly out of the downtown area, the Museo de El Carmen has no entry fee and is well worth an Uber ride of $12.
We also spent about an hour in the Museo del Objecto del Objeto (Museum of Ordinary Objects). Well curated, and well displayed, the ordinary objects in the museum include sneakers, shaving implements, kitchen appliances, clothing, furniture, and more. Quirky, yet fascinating, the museum is located in a “protected” Art Nouveau building in Mexico City’s beautiful Condesa neighborhood.
We ate a delicious dinner in the Condesa neighborhood, at MeroToro, another recommendation from the Red Tree House. The restaurant was filled with locals, and we tucked into inventive dishes that included scallops in mole, and mushroom parmesan risotto. We also ate fantastic al pastor tacos at another spot in the Condesa, Taqueria El Greco. Who knew that a mash up of Greek and Mexican food could be so good? Delicious traditional taco meat served on not so traditional pita bread. They were better than I ever imagined they could be. We tried a few delicacies in the Condesa as well, including local tequila, mezcal and pulque. Pulque is something I don’t need to drink on a regular basis, as it tastes a lot like what you would imagine something made from fermented sap of agave would taste like. We also drank mezcal with a side of worm salt, not bad at all if you don’t think about the fact that there are worms in the salt. The tequila, and of course the beer, I do recommend.
Speaking of the Condesa neighborhood, it’s the location of our favorite bed and breakfast EVER—The Red Tree House. If you’re not familiar with this establishment, you might take a look at their Trip Advisor reviews. More than 1,100 reviewers give the Red Tree House five stars, and we concur. The staff is outstanding, the rooms and courtyard beautifully designed, and the daily included breakfast and happy hour all but guarantee you’ll meet fascinating people and make new friends as well. We can’t speak highly enough of this great B&B.
Mexico City has my heart, and my stomach as well. We will definitely return again.