by Nancy Bestor
A few minutes in a public bathhouse will teach you more about daily life in Tokyo than any book you could ever read,” says Lonely Planet’s Tokyo. Public bathhouses, or “sentos”, live on from the days when homes and apartments didn’t have showers or baths. But to many Japanese, sentos remain an important cultural meeting place where social and economic status is literally stripped away. Therefore, as a way to dive deeply into this culture (no pun intended), Bob and I decided to visit the Jakotsu-Yu bathhouse, a short walk from Senso-Ji temple in Asakusa. After a few wrong turns, we found Jakotsu-Yu tucked down an alley and of course, with no English signage.

At this moment, butterflies in the stomach began to flutter. As rank outsiders we were about to enter a revered and etiquette-filled Japanese institution. While we had been told that the Japanese will generally forgive foreigners’ ignorance of their social graces, the bathhouse is where this generosity ends. We initiated the entrance, removed our shoes and paid the attendant about $4 each for use of the facility, a locker and a towel. We then went our separate ways, Bob to the men’s side, and me to the women’s. Our research revealed that locals will watch foreigners very carefully, to make certain they get 100% clean and 100% rinsed before entering the baths themselves. I put my clothing into a locker and smiled at many women, most of whom were older and fortunately didn’t pay me much attention at all.
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